Domaine Huët

 
This past year I spent some time in France’s Loire Valley and in Bordeaux. To tour the Loire I contacted Vincent Delaby of Vino Loire. His Trip Advisor reviews were outstanding. During the planning stages Vincent asked if I would like to visit Domaine Huët. The Domaine is a world renowned producer in Vouvray. They make probably the best Chenin Blanc in the world. A chance like this was too good to miss. I was all in for that visit. 

When we arrived at the Domaine I wasn’t sure what to expect, laid back or pretentious?  When we walked in we were welcomed right away, no speech about how great they were or how lucky we were to be received. They were glad we had come and happy to show us around. 

Temperature controlled barrel aging

The Domaine began in 1928 with Victor Huët purchasing a small plot in Vouvray known as Le Haut-Lieu. His son, Gaston, was attending college while the first vintages of Domaine Huët were made by Victor. The plan was for Gaston to take over running the Domaine in 1938. Before that could happen Gaston was drafted into the French army. Ahead of going to fight the Germans Gaston did what many other vignerons did, hid as much of their finished wines as they could. With France becoming occupied by the Nazis much of what had been produced was being confiscated by the Germans. Later, Gaston was captured by the Germans and spent years in a POW camp. In their fascinating book Wine and War, Don and Petie Kladstrup document Gaston’s struggles to survive his brutal confinement. 

An immensely readable  book that chronicles the occupation of France and the heroic efforts of the French to save their treasured wines.

 
Following Gaston’s release from the prison camp in 1945 he returned to Vouvray and worked on returning the vineyard to what it had once been. The 1945 Vouvrays he made were outstanding. Two years later Gaston said his 1947 wines were the best he ever made. Click here for a Decanter Magazine article on that vintage.  

Over time Gaston acquired two other plots of vines. In 1953 he began working the land at Clos du Bourg and later purchased that vineyard in 1963. Another plot, Le Mont, was purchased in 1957. Depending on the vintage, various wines are made from each vineyard. Sec, Demi-Sec, or Moelleux wines along with sparklers and dessert wines are produced from each if nature has cooperated. 

The walls at Clos du Bourg

The Domaine was one of the first major producers in the Loire to use biodynamic farming methods

This is considered by many as the Domaine's greatest vineyard.

Vines in Clos du Bourg

Sparkling wine aging in the limestone cellars

Our guide told us that the bubblies are not frozen for disgorgement and the final addition to determine sweetness level of finished wine is made with ​Domaine Huët wine.

The Domaine produces this sparkler as well as another in the  mousseux style. Both are given time in the bottle to develop before release. 

Gaston continued to make age worthy wines for many years and established the Domaine as Vouvray’s leading producer. In time he brought on his son-in-law, Noël Pinguet to carry on his legacy. During this period the Domaine embraced biodynamic farming and continued to make outstanding wines.  In 2002, at the age of 92, Gaston passed away. Sadly, none of Gaston’s descendants was interested in taking over the  Domaine and in 2003 Anthony Hwang became a major investor in Domaine Huët. Noël had planned to stay on as winemaker until 2015 but left in 2012. At this point Jean-Bernard Bertholmé, who had been with the Domaine since 1979, took over winemaking duties.

Jean-Bernard Bertholmé

Jean-Bernard and Jon

​While the Domaine makes many different bottlings none are made in large amounts. Only 650 cases of the 2017 Le Mont Demi Sec were produced.  The US is lucky if 50 cases are imported. The 2015 Cuvée Constance, which has not been produced since 2009, only yielded just 400 cases of 375ml bottles.  

The cool limestone cellars allow for the fermentation to take place slowly and malolactic fermentation is not encouraged. The acidity makes the sweeter wines retain a nice balance.

The Moëlleux and Moëlleux Première Trie wines are made with grapes that are picked at different times and may be a bit dried out or have been concentrated by botrytis.

The aromas and flavors include apple, pear, ginger, peach, quince, mango, and guava, all supported by the bright acidity. They are great now but age extremely well. 

The following is a Wine Spectator review of the
2009 Cuvée Constance

This stunning wine is fresh, pure and driven at first, with seamless ginger, creamed fig and glazed pear fruit, before showing its density and power via the honeycomb-, quince- and heather-filled core. Then the minerality cuts in, turning the finish back to racy despite the range of exotic fruit. A jaw-dropping display of richness balanced by precision. Drink now through 2040. 400 cases made.  –JM

I couldn't resist, I came home with at half a dozen bottles. I tried to get one from every vineyard and a varieties of styles. We had the bubbly while we were still in France. 

Domaine Huët is really a treasure. It's almost like stepping back in time. We sampled wines going back to 2003 that still had many years of life left in them as well as some current releases. All showed amazing purity and richness. In today's fast paced world it is nice to know that the Domaine will quietly keep turning out  their wonderful wines.