australia up close ungrafted: old vines and why they matter

On June 7, 2017 the Wine Australia team presented a seminar and a walk around tasting in New York City. The theme of the seminar was Ungrafted: old vines and why they matter. ​The seminar featured an all star panel (see pic below) that was justifiably proud  of their wines. There was no doubt that they had a deep respect for the old vines that were in their care. 

The wines were from some of the oldest ungrafted vines in the world. Because of Phylloxera, many of the vines in Europe and many other parts of the world were infected and had to be ripped out. The only solution was to tear out the damaged roots and replace them with American resistant root stock. Click here for Wine Folly article on Phylloxera.​

Bruce Tyrell presenting the 2010 HVD Hunter Valley Semillon

The seminar showcased rare wines from very old ungrafted vines. It is not often you get to taste this many wines from vines this old. The fact that these wines came from the original vines 
untouched by phylloxera meant we were tasting history. I was truly honored to have the chance to taste the wines and hear the stories behind them.

The Tyrell's 2010 Semillon tasted like a much younger wine. I predict a very long life for this one. This was bottled under screw cap and held for 5 years before release. Hunter Valley Semillons are well known for transforming into fleshy, waxy, deep wines with bottle age. This was still crisp and pure with peach and melon flavors. 

Alister Purbrick of Tahbilk

Next up was the 2008 Marsanne. My first impression was that this was unlike any other Marsanne I had ever tasted. Most have very little acidity, this one clocked in with a pH of 2.89. Alister explained that these old vine grapes are picked a bit early so as to preserve the natural acidity. A wine purposely made for long aging, also with a screw cap. Lively and with great aromatics. I'd love to try this again in 10 years.

Photo courtesy of Best's Great Western Wines

Josh Reynolds presented the Best's Great Western "Old Vine" Pinot Munier 2016. The last previous vintage of this wine was the 2012. It is believed that the vines that produced this wine are the oldest known ungrafted Pinot Meunier in the world. Only 250 cases of this wine were produced with just 10 cases sent to the USA. A beguiling wine, very aromatic with a spicy quality that stayed with you. 

Josh Reynolds

The Cirillo 1850 Barossa Valley Grenache 2011 was presented by Stephen Henschke. These vines are described as the planet's oldest ungrafted Grenache. 2011 was a difficult year but you couldn't tell that with this wine. With a pH of 3.1 it was brighter and crisper than the usual Grenache. Still very fresh tasting even after two years of oak aging. 

Toby Porter, the winemaker at d'Arenberg

The d'Arenberg "The Beautiful View McLaren Vale 2010 Grenache was was next. The vines were planted in 1912. Toby Porter discussed how old vines were quite consistent from year to year. That makes sense when you consider that these old vines have had so many years to adapt to their surroundings. This had a wild, meaty streak the made it distinctive. 

Photo courtesy of Hewitson Winery

The Hewitson "Old Garden" Barossa Valley Mourvedre 2013 was made from the oldest ungrafted Mourvedre vines in the world. The pattern continues. The wine was amazing. Spicy, leathery with sweet fruit on the finish. 18 months of new French oak gave it a touch of smokiness at the very end. 

The Kaesler Old Bastard Shiraz 2013 was a rich but restrained wine. Not at all over the top it saw 35% new oak. With a bit of acidity to keep it lively it was a pleasure to drink.

Christy Frank of Copake Wine Works

Michael Englemann MS Wine Director of The Modern

In keeping with the theme this wine came from the oldest syrah vines in existance. The Langmeil "The Freedom" 1843 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 was the most tannic of the three Shiraz. Lots of spice on the nose and palate. 

Stephen Henschke, Winemaker at Henschke

When the organizers sent out the list of wines for the seminar I was surprised to see the Hill of Grace would be poured. This is a wine that retails for over $800. The  Henschke "Hill of Grace" Eden Valley Shiraz 2010 is a legendary wine. It has its own video!

Stephen Henschke generously donated his wines for this seminar. I had read about them for years and was eagerly looking forward to this event. The wine did not disappoint. Loaded with so much fruit from cherry to plum to blackberry it was balanced with fine tannins and a hit of oak. Really a seamless wine. For all its power it came off with class and style.

It would have been a sin to not finish the Hill of Grace. No spitting for this one!

I have been to many trade show seminars but this one was special. To me it was a privilege to be able to taste wines that had so much history. Most of all the wines produced today come from vines that had to be grafted onto different roots. Who knows what wine would taste like if phylloxera had not  wreaked its havoc on the world. There are pockets places that have of vines  that have not been affected by phylloxera and they are prized. Everyone on the seminar panel talked about these vines with pride and respect. It was obvious that these vines will be never be ripped out to put in new vines that will one day produce higher yields. Ungrafted vines are our link to the past. 

Following the seminar there was a walk around tasting of many other Australian wines. One of the things I love about Australia is that they will try just about anything. They produce wine from grapes from just about every wine growing region in the world. Because of that you see wines that could only come from down under. The variety of wine styles is quite amazing. Good on you mates!

See what I mean?

I would like to thank Louise Nightingale of Wine Australia for squeezing me into the seminar. I replied to the registration email quickly but was not in time to get into the seminar. Being half Australian I would have hated missing the chance to participate in the event. Thanks Louise!